Joshua.Hu | Joshua Rogers' Scribbles

Recommendations for Wrocław

Wrocław is a medium-sized city located in the west of Poland. With an official population of 640,000 (with many hundreds of thousands likely not included in this statistic), it is Poland’s fourth largest city. Previously a part of Bohemia (Czechia), the Austrian Empire, Prussia and Germany (where it was known as, and is still the official name, “Breslau”; at the train station, for example, you can still see manhole covers entitled ‘Breslau’), the city was largely destroyed during World War 2, however was rebuilt: now, the city is a cultural and business hub for Poland.

During your visit to the Wrocław, there are many things to see and do throughout the city (and beyond).

Some things to note about the city

  • Crossing the street at any place except for traffic lights can really get you a fine in Poland.
  • Drinking is illegal in public.
  • Other than the worst kebabs of your life, it is difficult to find any type of food to buy after around 22:00 (this is true for all of Poland).
  • “Floor 0” means the ground floor in Poland.
  • The airport is not far from the city center, and you can either the city-bus number 106 (it takes around 30 minutes), or some type of taxi. As always in foreign countries, it’s best to use apps like Uber, Bolt, or a more local app “Free Now” to order a taxi.
  • Don’t expect friendly service in Poland, and if you ask for water you’ll have to specify you want it from the tap (which is 100% drinkable in Wrocław).
  • Most young people will speak some level of English, while the older generation may not speak any English at all. Don’t be afraid to try!
  • Sundays in Poland are a holy day in which most stores are legally obliged to be closed (with some exceptions). If you’re planning to buy anything on Sunday, be prepared to have nearly no options (see Supermarkets).
  • A couple of small stores operate in the city which are open nearly 24/7, but otherwise everything is closed at 23:00 until around 05:00.
  • The sale of alcohol from shops (not bars/restaurants) is forbidden from 22:00 - 06:00 in the main part of the city.
  • Trams are cheap and the most common app people use to buy tickets is https://jakdojade.pl: when using it in Wrocław, you need to enter the “number” of the tram/bus when boarding, and it can be found somewhere on the ceiling of the vehicle (something like ND340).

Sightseeing

  • Amfiteatralna pier and the general area by the river is a nice walk, and very beautiful in the evening to watch the sunset.
  • Plac Solny, which is just off the market square, hosts flower stalls and other lively activities throughout the year.
  • The “Colorful Backyards of Nadodrze” is an art project which was produced in the “backyard” of three different housing estates. In each of the estates, the walls of the buildings were painted with beautiful paintings. It may be difficult to find this area without directions, but this link should get you close enough to find it yourself.
  • The “Fosa” (water moat) which surrounds the southern part of the Wrocław old town is a nice walk, too.
  • The Centennial Hall (and the surroundings) is by far the most important sight to see in Wrocław. One of the two UNESCO sites in Wrocław it features various gardens (including a Japanese Garden), and a huge colourfully-lit fountain. Due to its groundbreaking and innovative use of reinforced concrete (unheard of in 1913), it has since become a cultural hub and is often visited for the events held within the hall, as well as the beauty of its surroundings. On the west side of the hall, a large spire (“Iglica”, literally in Polish, “little needle”) also stands tall.
  • The Four Dome Pavilion is the second UNESCO site in Wrocław and is literally next door to The Centennial Hall. It currently hosts the Wrocław Museum of Contemporary Art.
  • The National Forum of Music (aka a philharmonic hall) stands in a massive building behind the Opera House. Regardless of the hall itself, the “Liberty Square” outside is always filled with fun such as people practising to dance, models and photographers, and skateboarders.
  • The Neon Sign Gallery is an open street of collected neon signs from throughout the country. Free to visit any time of the day (although best to visit in the evening/night), in the evening it becomes lively with a bar serving drinks.
  • The Panorama of the Battle of Racławice is a 360-degree painting of the famous 1794 battle during the Kościuszko Uprising, hosted inside an iconic building just outside the old town.
  • The Park of Nicolaus Copernicus is a small park which hosts a small carousal and playground. The Wrocław Comedy Theatre overlooks the park.
  • The St. Mary Magdalene Church and accompanying Bridge of Penitents (or, “Witches’ Bridge”) is a church located in the heart of Wrocław’s old town. From the bridge, an ariel view of Wrocław offers a beautiful view into the horizon.
  • The Wrocław Market Hall is an open market for various food items as well as some homeware, flowers, and other stalls. The building is from 1908 and its interior is quite unique, especially for its time.
  • The Wrocław Opera is a Roman-style Opera House. Other than the beautiful interior itself and the performances available, during the summer time a “kino letnie” (summer film) runs periodically, where you can watch films outside.
  • Wrocław’s market square is the center of the city. With colorful townhouses, picturesque architecture, and a lively atmosphere, the square is nearly 1,000 years old and hosts various museums, restaurants, and bars, and is a great starting point for those looking to explore the City. Around Christmas, the city hosts the oldest and largest Christmas market in Poland, which is regarded as one of Europe’s best; during other months, periodic markets also occur. Although much of Wrocław was destroyed in World War 2, most of the buildings on the market square remained intact and have been restored.
  • Książ Castle in the city of Wałbrzych is the third-largest castle in Poland, and is also known as “Hitler’s Headquarters”. A 2-hour train ride away, the beautiful castle is said to be where Hitler stored his gold, and the underground tunnels can be explored.
  • Leśnica Castle is just a 40-minute tram ride away with free entrance to explore its gardens and surrounding area.

While out and about, you may (you’d have to be trying to not) see small dwarf statues around the city. With hundreds (nearing 1,000 now!) throughout the city and surrounding areas, these started off as recognition to the anti-communist movement in Wrocław in the ’80s. Read more about them here.

Museums / Galleries

  • The Four Dome Pavilion is the second UNESCO site in Wrocław and is literally next door to The Centennial Hall. It currently hosts the Wrocław Museum of Contemporary Art. The permanent exhibition is free on Tuesdays.
  • The Hydropolis is an interactive science museum with a focus on water.
  • The National Museum of Wrocław is one of Poland’s largest museums dedicated to both national and international artefacts and (mostly) art. Hosted in a building from 1886, the facade is covered in vines (specifically Virginia creeper) which turns a beautiful orange color during the autumn. It is free to enter on Saturday.
  • The Polish Poster Gallery: Polish posters are world famous for their creative and unique designs (and avante grade) – from film posters to posters of cities, this is absolutely a place you should check out while in Wrocław. Read more about the history of Polish posters here, here, and here. This gallery (which is also a store) is most likely a branch of the famous “Dydo Poster Gallery” in Kraków (which itself has seasonal exhibitions on top of its permanent historical and reprinted posters). These posters are likely compared to nothing you’ve seen before, even for the films you know – note: Polish film names are commonly wildly different from their original (albeit commonly making sense), such as Die Hard -> Glass Trap, The Hangover -> Vegas Hangover, Fight Club ->The Underground Circle, The Full Monty -> Naked and Furious, The Terminator -> Electronic Murderer, Rear Window -> Window to the Courtyard.
  • The Neon Sign Gallery is an open street of collected neon signs from throughout the country. Free to visit any time of the day (although the best time to visit the evening/night), in the evening it becomes lively with a bar serving drink.
  • The Wroclaw Contemporary Museum (not to be confused with the aforementioned “Wrocław Museum of Contemporary Art”) is another modern art exhibition with a rotation every 6-months.
  • The Wrocław Zoo, which is considered the best within the country, and also includes an “Afrykarium” with its associated aquarium.

Bars

  • AR-Bar: fan of board games? Must go!
  • AleBrowar: A well-known brewpub that is exemplary of Polish breweries.
  • Cocktail Bar Max & Dom Whisky: A famous whiskey lounge with hundreds of different types of whiskey.
  • Cocktail Bar by Incognito: A “hidden bar” which is found in the downstairs part of the “Conspira” restaurant.
  • Cocofli: A book, art, cafe, and wine bar, all in one.
  • Cybermachina: a place where you can drink and play video games with your friends or alone. They have also some board games.
  • Czupito: A cheap shot-only bar frequented by students and young people alike with over 130 types of flavored shots available.
  • DOJUTRA: A trendy bar serving cocktails and some food.
  • Karavan KRVN: Small, stylish bar with an open building.
  • Klubokawiarnia Recepcja: Bar serving beer and some other drinks by the Neon Sign Gallery.
  • Kontynuacja: A brewpub serving beer and some snacks.
  • Nietota: A cocktail bar with occasional live music.
  • Paka Pub: A quiet pub serving Czech beers.
  • Pijana Wiśnia: Well-known Ukrainian franchise of bars serving only one thing: cherry vodka.
  • Pinta: Famous Polish brewpub producing its own beer (among others).
  • Przedwojenna: Literally “Prewar”, a bar with a decor of old-Poland with snacks and cheap drinks.
  • Przybij Piątaka: The cheapest pub in Wrocław, where some shots are available for 5 zl – best for the end of a party when everything else is closed.
  • Rumbar.Nasyp: A quaint bar with a focus on rum located near the railway station.
  • Rusty Rat: A (true) cocktail bar with Wrocław’s most experienced bartenders at the helm. If you want cocktails by professionals, this is the place to go.
  • Szklarnia (Polish for “Greenhouse”): A trendy bar serving cocktails and beers inside an informal-but-stylish setting with an interior garden.
  • Winnica (literally “vineyard”): serving wines by the bottle/carafe as well as plates of cheese and meats, with a beautiful vine-laden courtyard.
  • Wyspa Słodowa (Malt Island) is the only public area in Wrocław where it is legal to drink alcohol in public. In the evening, this island becomes crowded with students and adults alike, and is the most lively part of the city at nighttime. Mini grills, drinking games, and general companionship can always be found here. Various beach bars can be found here too, and a Design studio can also be found on the island. It is recommended to buy some alcohol from a local store (before 22:00) and drink on the island.
  • XIII Igieł: A casual, nondescript bar frequented by students for its cheap but wide range of drinks.

Beach Bars

Despite Poland’s neighbours (specifically Berlin and Ukraine) going through a third-wave coffee revolution, coffee is quite bad in Poland. However, you’ll be able to find something nice in some of the following places (albeit more expensive).

Cafes and Bakeries

Despite the large variety of foreign restaurants in Wrocław (and in Poland in general), many of them struggle to provide truly authentic tastes and flavors from the cuisines they offer and are often modified and toned down to suit the Polish palate, which is less accustomed to the nuances of other cultures’ cuisines (especially spiciness). As a result, while many restaurants try to provide a culinary experience similar to that they originate from, they often do not fully capture the true essence and traditional preparation methods that one would experience in the respective countries, instead offering “adaptations”. It’s also difficult to get good sushi and other fish-related dishes in Poland since Poland does not have so many fish:). Nonetheless, there are some excellent places to eat in Wrocław, and all of the ones below pass the “Taste Test” of the author of this article; your mileage may vary.

Note: some of these restaurants provide a very small discount for Opera employees. You can check out the discounts available on this wiki page.

Restaurants

American:

Argentinian:

    • PAMPA: Among some other things, this restaurant serves fresh Argentinian empanadas.

Breakfast/Brunch:

Cuban:

Georgian:

Greek:

Ice Cream:

Indian:

    • Saravana’s Curry& Dosa: Truly authentic Indian (South Indian, to be exact) food in Poland; unexpected, but appreciated. Unfortunately a bit far from the city center, the metal plates add to the experience.

Italian:

Japanese:

    • ato ramen wro: Ramen (from a famous Ramen joint from the city of Łodź); try the pistachio flavor.
    • Darea: Cheap-ish sushi place in the city center; not the best, not the worst, just normal and quite cheap.
    • Michiko Sushi Roll: Serving both sit-down (bento boxes, large meals, and some Japanese curries) and take-out packs of sushi, this place is probably the easiest to visit during your time in Wrocław due to its location, price, and selection. If you want something not too fancy but still “good enough”, this place is the one to be at. They also serve Japanese beer. Also the interior is really nice.
    • poké poké: Poké bowls. What’s more to say about it? These places are all the same.
    • Sushi:Sushi Cafe: Slightly outside of the city, this place is a personal favorite for sushi in Wrocław.
    • Suszarnia Wrocław Sushi & Bar: A really nice sushi place towards the western suburbs.
    • Delivery Sushi: Some of the best sushi in Poland you will ever find is available only from delivery apps like those listed further down in this article. This may be due to the fact they: they are prepared in questionable conditions, every sushi place in Europe is a money-laundering front, or because the kitchen required to prepare sushi is tiny; you need a fridge, a rice cooker, and a bench. Nonetheless, delivery-only sushi nearly always better than other places. I recommend checking out Ubereats or one of the other apps, ordering some sushi to a park, and enjoying it outside if it’s nice weather.

Korean:

    • Korill180: Korean BBQ.
    • Kyunghone: Slightly further away from the city, this place offers truly authentic Korean food, which hasn’t been modified too much for Polish taste-buds.
    • Oseyo 25: Teppanyaki, Bibimbap, Gimbap, Fried Chicken, Shabu Shabu (Hot Pot), Ramen, Korean BBQ, and more.
    • SOLLEIM 설레임: Fried Chicken in the city center.

Mexican:

Middle Eastern:

    • Jaffa Bar&Market
    • Kasprowicza24: Poland is full of low-quality low-cost “kebab” (meat sliced from 4-am-delivered frozen sticks which is made from the unsellable meat of some animal) and is often joked about due to Polish nationalists love for this “foreign food”. Kasprowicza24 is not that. Located next to the Muslim Cultural and Educational Center, the meat and vegetables are fresh, it doesn’t smell like chemicals, and the hummus is home-made.
    • Hommus Libańskie jedzenie Gyros & Grill: Similar to the one above.

Modern European:

    • Aksameet Bistro Restauracja
    • The Cork
    • La Maddalena: One of the most expensive restaurants in Wrocław, this is a place if you want to go for “fine dining”.
    • Nafta Neo Bistro: A modern take on Polish cuisine, it’s not the “cheap polish food that grandmum used to make”:).
    • Restauracja Przystań & Marina: One of the most expensive restaurants in Wrocław, this is a place if you want to go for “fine dining”.
    • STÓŁ na Szwedzkiej - studio kulinarne: More than just a restaurant, this place advertises itself as a “culinary studio” due to its option kitchen, and the general menu-less design: you chat with the chefs about your flavor preferences, and they make something up! They have extremely unusual ingredients and the whole visit there is an experience more than just food: they also do workshops!

Peruvian:

Spanish:

Polish:

    • Bar Mleczny Mikrus: A bit far from the city, if you have the time, I highly recommend you visit this “bar mleczny” (milk bar). to give some context to what “bar mleczny” means, I recommend you read this Wikipedia article. They serve cheap Polish classics in what can only be described as a canteen. Historically, it doesn’t get any more Polish than this.
    • Bar Mleczny Miś: Another bar mleczny frequented by students, this place may have the most variety of Polish dishes in one location in the whole city.
    • Bar Witek: Wrocław is known for some places serving “tosty” (toasted sandwiches). This is one of the most famous places offering nothing but that. Naples has pizza, China has Dim Sum, Kraków has Zapiekanki, and Wrocław has… tosty:).
    • Browar Stu Mostów na Świdnickiej: Sort of famous place in Wrocław.
    • Conspira - polish restaurant based on 80’s:
    • IDA kuchnia i wino: Not fine dining, but high quality semi-fancy Polish food. Fairly cheap, considering.
    • Manufaktura Bezglutenowa: Gluten-free Polish food a little bit outside of the city. Given that most Polish food is normally heavily gluten based, this place is a real gem for those that can’t eat gluten.
    • Młoda Polska bistro & pianino
    • Pan Precel: Another classic Wrocław thing is large pretzels. These come in all flavors including sweet. Definitely try it out!
    • Restauracja Lwia Brama²
    • SETKA: Styled to fit Poland during the communist times, this place serves up shots, drinks, and classic Polish food.
    • Ze Smakiem (literally “with taste”): This writer’s favorite place for pierogi in the whole country (they also serve borshch). A small place with just three tables, you can watch the cashier create their home-made pierogi. Servings include unusual fillings like salmon & feta & lemon grass and blue cheese & pear & honey, alongside Polish classics which are not easily available in restaurants such as chicken liver & cranberry and farmers cheese & buckwheat. A must visit in my humble opinion.

Thai Food:

    • Tajfun: Surprisingly good Thai food for Poland.

Ukrainian:

Uzbekistan:

    • ️Samarqand restauracja uzbecka: It would be naïve to assume that Uzbekistani food is just Russian food! This place gives a taste of Uzbek cuisine (especially the most traditional Uzbek food, plov). You can also smoke shisha in their designated area.

Vegan & Vegetarian (Exclusively):

    • Bez Lukru
    • FALLA
    • KASZA I PASZA WHOLESOME FOOD
    • PieRogi Vegan
    • Pod przykrywką: With just a few tables, this place offers Polish vegan food that not only tastes great, but is completely homemade by the owner/chef who will not only take your order, but come and chat. Highly recommended.
    • Soup Culture: Various soups which are served in a bread cone (aka: you can walk and eat/drink with it). Sort of a novelty, but the soups are good.
    • Talerzyki: “Small plates” place with really good hummus, falafel, shakshuka, and other middle eastern inspired food.
    • Vega: Surprisingly cheap, tasty, and healthy, this place offers Polish-inspired vegan dishes in the middle of the main square. There’s two parts to this place: the ground floor, and the restaurant upstairs. I recommend the upstairs part.
    • w kontakcie
    • Warzywniak
    • Wilk Syty: Many vegetarian and vegan restaurants try to emulate or imitate meat-based dishes. This place does not. With its unique ever-changing menu that uses fresh seasonal ingredients, their food is a personal favourite and an amazing example of what food (which just happens to be vegan) can be.

Hotels

  • Herbal Hotel: Newly rebuilt in an old monastery, the hotel has a nice wine cellar and is on one of the better streets within the city.
  • Hotel Altus Palace:
  • Hotel Monopol: One of the most prestigious hotels in the city, it’s common to see luxury cars parked out the front. It is directly next to the opera house, and has all the amenities that are expected in a 5-star hotel. It also has a great rooftop restaurant.
  • Novotel Wrocław Centrum: Standard Novotel hotel. Nice area in the lobby to chill.
  • PURO Hotel Wrocław Stare Miasto: A stock-standard hotel, Puro is close to the opera house and provides breakfast for free.
  • SleepWalker Boutique Suites: The rooms in this hotel are quite small but are generally fine, with some rooms having a balcony.
  • The Bridge Wroclaw - MGallery: Perhaps the best hotel in the city with respect to: price, location, amenities, and location, this is a 5-star hotel with a gym, sauna, right in the heart of Ostrów Tumski. It’s extremely quiet, their interior design is extremely well throughout with subtilises that make it even better, and if you have a window view you’ll be mesmerized by the amazing Cathedral of St. John the Baptist. Apparently their restaurant great, too.

Hostels

  • FOKA Hostel: Slightly further away from the city, this place is not so much a tourist hostel than a place to rent rooms with many beds inside them. Extremely quiet in a big building and modern, high-quality design.
  • Grampa’s Hostel: Fully functional hostel with a nice kitchen and clean common area with yoga mats, many games and books and all the necessities you except from a tourist hostel. Exceptionally clean.
  • Hostel Mleczarnia: Located on one of the nicer streets of Wrocław, this place has the tourist hostel vibe that is expected when staying at hostels.

Clubs

Supermarkets

  • Biedronka: There are a few stores named “Biedronka” around Wrocław which sell cheap groceries and so on. Opening times are 07:00-22:00.
  • Carrefour: There is one large Carrefour in Wrocław, and a few smaller Carrefour Express’ scattered throughout the city (which are open on Sunday).
  • Żabka: Żabka is a franchise of small general stores selling some fresh fruit and vegetables but mostly packaged foods and drinks. Most are open late, and some are open 24/7. Żabka stores are open on Sunday.

Food Delivery

Shopping

  • Feniks: Feniks is not a traditional department store and most likely doesn’t fit into this category, but it is worth exploring. Built in 1904, the building has a fascinating history (much longer in Polish) and is the type of thing you go and check out without the intention of buying anything.

  • Von Schpargau: A vintage/second-hand store.

  • Natura Rzeczy: An art store selling various natural products (e.g. from wood, plants, and so on).

  • Nature Concept: A small store selling “plants in a jar” type products.

  • Duża Czarna: Quite far from the city, this place sells vinyl, VHS, CDs, cassettes, and so on.

  • Kuku Concept Store: Small shop selling various handmade items.

  • Cindy Vintage: Vintage/second-hand store known of its surprisingly nice clothes.

  • Bazar Miejski: Another second-hand store with coffee, beer, and tea.

  • Drink Hala: Shop with probably one thousand types of (bottled) beers.

Interesting Architecture

  • “Sedesowce” (literally “toilet seat buildings”), also known as “Manhattan”, is an interesting set of six apartment blocks in the East of Wrocław which are an important architectural visit and shouldn’t be missed. The brutalist buildings hold an interesting history which can be read about on the architect’s Wikipedia page: Jadwiga Grabowska-Hawrylak. The accompanying Wikipedia page of the area can be found here (in Polish).
  • Other interesting buildings in the city are those designed by Stefan Müller.
  • The “Hansel and Gretel Houses” are an entrance to another church within the city, and the name comes from the interesting design of the buildings (note how small the rooms must be).
  • The Aula Leopoldina, which is a college museum in baroque style with beautiful frescoes.
  • The Buildings of Wojciech Jarząbek are interesting “out of place” buildings which do not match the buildings surrounding them, and the first examples of “Postmodernism Architecture” in Poland. Of those that still exist, the easiest to visit are the “colored filling” (“filling” here can mean the type of filling you get in your teeth) which is on the way to the Zoo, or one close to the railway station – note in the latter how the building seems to encapsulate the buildings next door and build on top of them without concern for the contrast of design. In 2022, the most well-known of the buildings, “The Solpol Department Store” which was located meters away from the opera house, was torn down.
  • The Department of Chemistry’s building (of The University of Wrocław) is located within an architecturally interesting building of brutalist style. Its design divides the local inhabitants, but it is worth visiting and witnessing its design from the entrance of the building. The other buildings within this university area are also worth looking at from the outside, such as the Institute of Computer Science.
  • The Mathematical Tower of the building of the University of Wrocław and the surrounding area is a beautiful part of the city with small streets and interesting sculptures such as The Naked Swordsman. At one of the entrances with a beautiful blue and gold door, literally every single university graduate poses for photos. Within the same building, you can also find….
  • The Tower of the Cathedral of St. John the Baptist is found in the quiet area of Wrocław known as “Ostrów Tumski” (Cathedral Island). This is the oldest part of the city, and is mostly owned by the church. It is common to see monks walking around this area, and you can also find interesting buildings such as the Archdiocesan Library, statues of Jesus, and some smaller churches such as the Roman Catholic Church of St. Martin.
  • The Wrocław Botanical Garden, also found in Ostrów Tumski, is a surprisingly large garden a operated by the University of Wrocław, featuring plants, reptiles, and fish from all over the world.
  • Trzonolinowiec is a top-heavy apartment building whose base is much smaller than the rest of the building suspended on its top (think: chicken legs), creating the appearance that it may fall at any time. Although the building now has some support beams, it was originally enforced with just ropes from the top. More info on Wikipedia (in Polish). Update 30-07-2023: This building will be going under construction soon (forced by the government) so check it out soon!

Festivals

Other Things To Do

  • Hala Świebodzki: A food court in an old railway station, you can chill out here (both inside and outside), eat some food, and likely listen to some type of music playing.
  • Kayak on the Odra: A few places offer kayaks and other types of boats to rent for fairly cheap.
  • kino | nowe horyzonty: The New Horizons Cinema is one of the three most culturally significant theatres in Poland, and is an important venue for all film enthusiasts. Not only do they play new films, they also screen old classic Polish films from the past century, as well as “international” (aka non-english and non-polish) films too. Many of the non-English films have English subtitles, and ask a Polish person to confirm what you’re seeing there will either be in English or have English subtitles.
  • Nocny Targ Tęczowa: “Nocny Targ Tęczowa is an area opened in 2019 in Społem at ul. Tęczowa an event combining music, food and other entertainment events. On weekends, there are all-night parties with live music, DJs, stand-up artists and outdoor cinema shows. During the warm season from May, the night market takes place from Thursday to Sunday.”
  • Targowisko MŁYN: Every sunday, this place sprawls with people selling old goods. It’s a flea market, basically: here you’ll find everything and nothing at the same time!
  • Wrocławski Bazar Smakoszy: Every Saturday and Sunday, this place becomes a bazaar of local and regional food and drinks. Fun to check out.
  • Wrocław Boat Party: If you’re looking to party on a boat, the Wrocław Boat Party offers a 2-hour experience on a large boat going up and down the Odra river with: an open bar (vodka, rum, gin, beer and soft drinks), a live DJ, a photo booth, drinking games, and a pubcrawl afterwards. They’ve also got a live magician on the boat!